To find out if I have any hammers on hand, just email me. I am
making fewer and fewer hammer while getting more and more
requests for hammers.
Each DAMMERR is a unique, numbered, hand crafted tool that is the finest climber's hammer available. Each part of the hammer is the result of careful thought and experimentation. Although I am still improving the design, the evolution has slowed to the point that it nearly stopped because I can't think of any substantial improvements.
The head is formed from 4242 Chrome-moly steel that is then heated red hot and quenched to harden it. After hardening, the head is tempered so that it won't be brittle and chip. The shape of the head is designed to both be useful as a multi-tool and be an efficient striking hammer sized for drilling hard rock. It has a carabiner hole so that it can be used with a funkness device or hung on a harness loop.
The handle is shaped from hickory that I acquire in large, dry slabs. The handle has a grip that has a cross section in the shape of a rectangle with rounded corners. The rectangular shape gives the user precise tactile feedback as to the orientation of the head that a round or rounded handle cannot. The butt of the handle is drilled out so that a leash can be attached. A beefy #10 brass screw is used to anchor the leash. The screw runs through the larger dimension of the handle to provide better anchorage.
Steel tubing is used to reinforce the handle. The steel tube encases the wood and extends through the head. The handle is not only protected from misstrikes but is strengthened in both bending and shear in the critical area near the head. Each handle is turned on a machinist's metal lathe for a precise fit into the tube. Inside the head the tube is split to allow the handle wedge to expand the tube tightly into the head. At the bottom of the split in the tube are drilled holes that reduce stress concentration and prevent cracks developing in the tube.
The head, handle, handle wedge and reinforcing tube are all locked together with a spring pin that passed through all four pieces. The head, handle, reinforcing tube and wedge cannot come apart unless the steel pin is removed. Since the spring pin is larger than the hole, it compresses as it is driven in and is held firmly in place.
The black finish on the steel head is how it comes out of the heat treating process but it has been coated with a very thin coat of boiled linseed oil. Linseed oil will prevent rust if you recoat the steel occasionally. Wipe the steel with an oiled rag then wipe it again with a dry rag. Too much oil will be sticky and collect dirt.
The hammer handle is finished with boiled linseed oil so if you ever want to oil it, use that.
It has a tether. By tying a loop in the end of the tether you can simply girth hitch it to the front of your harness or if you prefer a shoulder sling, you can tie the cord to a shoulder length runner with a follow through knot. The hammer can be hung from a carabiner or holstered in a gear loop. If you like tape on the handle, hockey stick tape is the absolute best.